Looking back

One of the things about the Hajj - at least over the last ten years or so - is that you kinda expect tragedies to happen.  This year, things seemed to move without a hitch - leaving us journos scrambling to find unique ways of covering it.

Other tidbits

There's been much controversy this year over the plight of Pakistani pilgrims, and why they were given substandard accomodations during the Hajj despite paying exhorbitant amounts.  On the first day when pilgrims were in Mina, Pakistani pilgrims actually took to the streets to protest when they arrived at their tents and found no plumbing a/c, and substandard sleeping arrangements.  Pakistan's tribune has this great story, tactfully titled Unholy Profit.  The Saudi government has now ordered a probe, saying they offered Pakistani gov't officials better accomodations, but were turned down.

For a three days a year, Mina becomes the world's largest abatoire, with Saudi officials importing - they say - over a million livestock for the sheep sacrifices that take place there.  This year they've announced the meat will be shipped to needy people in 27 different countries.   Haven't been able to find anything indicated how the process is monitored, which is to say, in whose hands does the meat really end up.

Oh, and yes, there were even Tulsans at this year's Hajj.

 

Hajj News Roundup

Alright then.

Thanks to the schedule set by Saudi authorities, was unable to log on for any meaningful blog updates during the last few hours of the Hajj, right up until now.  Part of it also had to do with my own schedule.  Trying to participate in the Hajj while also covering it definitely has some drawbacks.  If I had to do it again - and boy do I hope I get the chance - I'll come here strictly as a journalist.  Generally, I believe in reporter involvement - that the reporter is part of the story whether he/she likes it or not.  But during the Hajj, it's impossible to participate in the Hajj and also cover it - and expect to do justice to both.

The last day of the stoning ritual was Thursday - which marked the official end of the Hajj.  Most pilgrims returned to Mecca that night to perform a final "farewell" circuit around the Ka'bah.  At one point, it was so crowded (imagine 3 million people all trying to do it on the same night) that Saudi police advised pilgrims to stay away from the Great Mosque.  They even closed it at one point, positioning police in barricades around it's main entrance.  The scene was slightly reminiscent of the G20, except these police had no weapons.  Neither did the crowd, for that matter.

Now that the Hajj is over, Saudi officials are in full self-congratulatory mode.  Some of it is, in fact, deserved.  More than three million pilgrims came this year, including 1.8 from outside the Kingdom - marking a new record. For the most part, despite worries about flu epidemics, stampedes, terror alerts, and unmanageable gridlock, things went off without a hitch.

At its heart, the Hajj is a spiritual journey.  But this year, it's becoming clear that Mecca is starting to look a lot like Manhattan.  At least according to this

ArabNews also has a great photo recap, covering the entire Hajj period. 

The BBC also has a series of good profiles on people with disabilities who performed the Hajj this year.  Would make a very interesting TV story.

And in the "that's bizarre" category, sales of animal skins, including those of endangers species, seems to be picking up now that the Hajj is over. 

Moving forward, am going to be stuck at the airport tomorrow for at least 4-5 hours.  Apparently, getting OUT of Mecca can be just as length as getting in.  The plan is to post a few more updates - one about Canadian honeymoons in Mecca, the other a personal look back at how the trip was, and another about all the stories journalists SHOULD be covering here, but aren't - myself included.

Whirlwind

It's been a frantic 36 hours.  The Hajj rites ended Thursday, got to Mecca late Thursday night, and Friday morning, bang, the journalists are whisked off to Jeddah for a special "reception"

You know, I love fancy receptions as much as the next guy, but not when all us journos are on deadline.

Am frantically typing away - working on a story about Canadian newlyweds who choose to go to the Hajj on their honeymoons.  There aren't any official statistics, but many Hajj tour operators say it's a growing trend.  With any luck,  the story will fit the motif of "Hajj is over, new life begins."

Stay tuned.

Today's news roundup

Lots of good little tidbits out of Mecca today.

King Abdullah, the "custodian of the two holy mosques" made a passionate plea for unity among Muslims.  Great idea, except when you read a post on how some pilrgims are "more equal" than others. 

Death and life in Mecca

 
I'll never forget the sound.

You might've read on my twitter feed (@MuhammadLila) a few days ago that the journalists' bus from Arafat to Muzdalifah had to make an emergency stop after our driver hit an elderly man.

This morning, we learned the man died.

Lightning strikes, pilgrims progress

 
Never seen anything like this before.

Just after 8 p.m. tonight, a serious lightning storm rolled through the region, hitting Mina first then continuing on to Mecca.  It started as small drops of rain, but within minutes, it quickly worsened.

Class differences on the Hajj

Thanks to some poor planning on my part, I wound up walking about 5-6km in the heat of the desert sun this afternoon.  Though I can’t say it was anything close to relaxing – it did give me a chance to see the Hajj – and this massive gathering of people – in a unique way.

Let’s start from the beginning.

Taking the fast train to Mecca

Mecca’s never been a fast city.

Even during the non-Hajj season, things move slowly. They kind of always have. People, cars, buses, camels, horses, you name it. Just today, the group I was with spent over an hour crammed into a GMC Yukon negotiating through a small roadway just 2km long. At least we were in an SUV. I feel sorry for the people in buses.

It’s been like this, literally, for decades. Need to get around? Just hop on someone’s bus. No room? No problem, hop on the luggage rack on the roof. And boy, if you found a bus where the A/C was actually working, you knew you’d hit a goldmine.

Mina goes high-tech (plus a pic or two)

 
Pilgrims walk by the new Jamaraat Bridge, in Mina.  Saudi authorities have expanded the complex, scene of deadling stampedes in years past, to make pedestrian flow more manageable.

The scene in Mina today is very festive.  It’s not easy wearing the ihram – and all the conditions it brings with it – and most pilgrims are in a rush to remove it as soon as they can.  The first step in that process happens with the “stoning of the devil” ritual. 

The past 24 hours

Wasn’t planning on being offline so long, the first 4-5 hours were by choice, the rest was by circumstance.

And boy do I mean circumstance.

The thing about Hajj, I’m told, is that it’s full of last minute plans being made and cancelled.  Somehow, everything seems to work out in the end.