z_Naked Lunch

Best Dressed 2007

GEORGE PIMENTEL PHOTO

Yasmin Warsame, model and judge on Canada’s Next Top Model, says her "style depends on my mood. If I feel like a lady, I dress up. If I feel casual, I dress down."

The Toronto Star's 2007 Best Dressed List honours 10 men and 10 women with style in the GTA. Below, fashion editor Bernadette Morra, stylist Derick Chetty and fashion and beauty writer Erin Kobayashi discuss with readers whether they agree with who is on the list. Add your comments to the discussion by clicking on the comment link.

Of course I can't agree. Every person on this list has a relatively well paying job or is in the limelight. If you can afford Yves or D&G as part of your daily wardrobe, then style is purchased more than it is created.   I'd love to see a list of "real" people being recognized for making something out of nothing.

Getting all your shirts tailor-made is not about having style - it's about having enough disposable income. If you're buying them off a clearance rack and making them your own - then you should definitely make the list.

It sometimes feels like being a clothes-horse is being misinterpreted as having style.  Having style means you can take a piece of clothing that at least 50% of the population would not even sniff at (and NOT because of the price-tag) and turn it into something that turns heads.

I have seen more than a few goths, punks and every-day folk who have far more style than the people on either of these lists.

P.S. why is it that 9 guys on a list about style share the same look? A button down shirt with either A) jeans or B) slacks...how is that having style?  The death of men's fashion has been the standardization of it - somehow all guys now believe a button down shirt, not tucked with jeans is being cool and edgy. We all end up looking the same! Paul Gallo

You make a lot of good points, Paul. I will address the last one myself. We didn't instruct the honourees on what to wear in their photos. So it was more coincidence than anything that several appear in similar looks. When we were doing the judging, we either had several photos of each man in different looks to base our debate on, or we have seen them on a number of occasions in different ensembles. And I am not sure that men's fashion is more standardized now than, say, 100 years ago. Bernadette

I don't think that everyone on the list has a high paying job. So I certainly don't think that had an impact on who was chosen. You only have to look at Hollywood to see that money does not necessarily equate style. Also men who get their shirts custom made often do so for the benefit of a flawless fit.  And there is more creativity involved with such a purchase. Selecting fabric, collar, cuff, buttons are all things that the wearer has to decide on. I think that is actually a more involved and difficult process than buying off the rack. Derick

Bruno Billio, who is on the cover, is an artist-in-residence at the Gladstone Hotel in Parkdale.  I would not assume that he blows his entire income on clothing.  In fact, Billio still wears clothing he purchased in the 1990s and hardly ever shops.  When he does make a purchase, he never buys big-name designers.  Erin

And as Flare fashion director Elizabeth Cabral said, she can't afford everything she wants and so she has to make choices. All of the people on the list have made fashion a priority in their lives. Some spend on fashion rather than cars, real estate, furniture... How many fashionistas do we know who walk in Prada shoes but sit on Ikea furniture? Also, most of the people on the list mix high and low labels. I wonder if Paul isn't referring to aesthetics. He mentions that he knows lots of goths and punks with style. These are very different sensibilities than the polished "fashion" look that we are rewarding on our list. Bernadette

First of all, when deciding the best dressed list, I think you should have different categories for income levels  What I am trying to say is try getting a few people on the list who are inventive on a low budget. The list only contains people who are, at the very least, financially comfortable.   While I do understand having money doesn't guarantee fashion sense-I've seen more than my share of wealthy people who look as if they don't own a full length mirror, I believe you should open up this list to include those who are 'financially strapped'.
In doing this you would get a better picture of who/what Torontonians who enjoy fashion/style really look like.
THINK ABOUT IT-REALLY! Renee

We will, Renee. In fact when The Star launched its Best Dressed List in 2000, we asked readers for their nominations. Our intent was to unearth the well-dressed average guy-next-door. But we found that readers either nominated very well known Canadians (newscasters, etc) or that the nominations were suspiciously promotional, like they were from public relations people nominating their clients. We did include reader involvement for several years, but we found it was too difficult to judge. Bernadette

Thanks Bernadette for commenting on my email & you have a point about men's style over the past 100 years. I just wish there was some sense of evolution in the mainstream. I'm not looking to wear pirate shirts and puffy pants, but at least something that also doesn't involve being tart'ed up in something by costume designer, oops, I mean clothes designer Galliano.
As for the lists, might I suggest you create a new set of lists for next year that are about every day people, and do field studies of people who hang around Kensington, or Queen East or Queen West (west of Spadina) in search of candidates. Paul

I live on Queen West and I know that many of the people on the list either live or frequent the area.  Nicole Sibonney has a store a few doors down from where I live and Americo hardly caters to the Yorkville crowd, all of the store's original designs are affordable to those who live on Queen West.  Alon Freeman lives by the Drake and Bruno lives in the Gladstone Hotel.  I think the list does reflect a diverse group of people from all areas of the city. Erin

What I am hearing is that some readers think our list is too narrowly focused. Although I have also had some very positive feedback. Several people remarked that they are inspired by people on our list. And one thing I meant to point out in today's column, but didn't have room to do, is that I was surprised by how many of the men we chose go to tailors. Tailoring seemed to be a dying craft. Could there be a renaissance afoot? Thanks very much for all your comments,today. Bernadette

Is Fashion Cares Terminally Ill?

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and stylist Derick Chetty are discussing Fashion Cares new format. Send your comments to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below. Refresh this page often to see the latest remarks.

TARA WALTON/TORONTO STAR

There was no runway at the 2007 Fashion Cares Peep, and fashion was limited to about a dozen unidentified outfits on dancers.

I am getting lots of feedback to my column about Fashion Cares in this today's newspaper. Some readers seem to feel that, in one man's words, I nailed it. Someone else told me he felt I was too soft. What is really alarming and sad is how everyone seems to agree that this year's Fashion Cares was a disaster. Bernadette

Good morning… It was with extreme glee I read your review of Fashion Cares. The articles summed up most of my feelings of disappointment on Saturday night.

I've always considered it a great privilege to attend Fashion Cares and this year I was so sad to see the lack of vitality to the event. From the venue – a nightmare to the stiletto wearing fashionistas to the non-fashion show it was a supreme let down. The only good thing was the food – it was actually excellent. Forget about people watching which is half the fun of the event – how could you see anyone when it was so spread out. It was painful to watch the live auction. Can you blame people for not wanting to part with their money – their fingers were probably too cold to reach into their wallets. Hello – heat lamps!!!!!

I think the big winner of the night was Philip Ing – I hope he felt extreme satisfaction at the conclusion of that atrocious show that closed the event. ACT should re-hire him and pay him double whatever they used to pay him if he is paid for doing that event. ACT definitely has to return the event to its roots next year – I think there is going to be a considerable fundraising issue if sponsors think twice about signing up for next year.
Cecilia Fiorino

VINCE TALOTTA/TORONTO STAR

Some Toronto Star readers are calling for the return of retired Fashion Cares artistic director Phillip Ing of MAC Cosmetics.

I have been to Fashion Cares on several occasions in the past. Last weekends event was absolutely horrible. There was zero WOW factor, it was freezing cold, poor entertainment, severely restricted areas to drink in, poorly trained event staff, awful show, no actual fashion show, annoying MC, terrible auctioneers, etc, etc, etc. I was very disappointed and felt betrayed. For the increased price of the event, I expected so much more than previous years and in return was let down beyond compare. I had convinced friends who had never been to the event to come, essentially guaranteeing a spectacular evening. You can imagine my embarrassment at the end of the evening and several thousand dollars later when I was left explaining that in past years it really was good. I doubt I will go back. I would certainly need some assurance of the return to the previous format on all levels. Bring back Phillip Ing!!!!!!
Dr. Garry Wallace

I have yet to speak to someone who has something nice to say about the event. Comments ranged from "an amateur high school production" to "highly disorganized."  I didn't mind a change in venue. I was in that camp of people who was tired of the Convention Centre. But I think it was very disorganized at the Distillery. Guests couldn't find the restaurants they were supposed to eat in. And why was there such a huge and slow line-up to get into the tents? It was also dangerous when leaving that there was only one exit in that tent. But my biggest disappointment had to have been the show. It felt very amateurish. There was long gaps between each performance. It's a live show! You can't have an audience sitting there for ten minutes with nothing to do whilst you're getting ready for the next act! Derick

I attended Fashion Cares at the Distillery last week and felt I had to respond to my displeasure for the event. I was expecting an event as exciting as the past events that I have attended and was left severely disappointed for the following reasons: We jumped at the opportunity to purchase early-bird tickets at $500 for the first 300 guests. Imagine my surprise, when four days before the event, The Toronto Star is advertising tickets for $500. Did anyone pay $1,000 per ticket? If you are hosting an outdoor event, maybe late June would be a better date as the weather would not be freezing cold. The event was choppy and since no maps were provided, we had no idea where the entire event was taking place. Trying to find a washroom was a nightmare as half the volunteers had no idea where they were located either. The drinking restrictions were ridiculous. Once we received a drink near the Boutique, we were stuck in a small corralled area and could not wander the Boutique. We could not explore the entire area as we had to stay in the licensed areas if we wanted to drink. The small dining rooms lacked the excitement and ambience of being at a large event. (Although I did receive the best meal I have ever had at Fashion Cares) There wasn't really a Fashion Show.....very, very disappointing. We had explained to the friends who attended with us, plus some new friends who we met over dinner, that the Fashion Show would justify the ticket price as it is always incredible. The event should have been called "Musicians Care". The Auctioneers were absolutely disastrous. 50 Minutes to auction 5 items?? I had to leave the tent as I could no long listen to them as they were annoying me to death. Why have the large screen at the rear of the stage if you were not going to project the acts onto it. I heard from many people at the rear that they could not see anything. The only Fashion Show portion, the Ballet Fashion, was unbearable to watch as the horrible red/orange screen behind them, made it difficult to see the actual dancers. Dita Von Teese was incredible....too bad it nosedived from there. The constant breaks between acts were bad enough, but to sit through commercials was unacceptable. What is a Fashion Show without a runway? ...A concert I guess!!! It would have been great to have the After-party at the same location....who wants to travel to a second location. When we checked in at the beginning, no one explained what the purple wrist bands were for, so we left them in the hotel room between venues. Once we arrive at the After-party, we realize they were for the upper portion of Koolhaus. Some explanation would have been helpful. Picture this scenario.....2000 or so people dancing, having fun and all of a sudden....the music stops and someone starts singing a slow burlesque number while multiple women strip on stage.....hmmm...I would have rather danced! 80% Gay men, 18% Women, 2% Straight Men....Women stripping huh? Isn't Fashion Cares supposed to be daring, raunchy, and different? Burlesque with a Gay Appeal might have been the better way to go. These are a few comments; I could provide many more but you get the idea. I hope that Fashion Cares returns to its roots. I could not understand why Fashion Cares needed to be re-invented, since it was working great. It was a highly respected, highly attended fundraiser that many looked forward to returning year after year. The change was not well-received and hopefully the committee responsible will reconsider the changes. In order for myself to attend again, I want assurances that I can expect a Fashion Cares comparable to the great ones in the past. Kevin McKitrick

TARA WALTON/TORONTO STAR

The emphasis of the show was on musical performances, including singer Mya.

One thing which I did not mention in my story is the politics behind what Fashion Cares has become. I did call ACT to try to speak to someone there and get more insight into what is going on behind the scenes. We never connected and not because of lack of effort on my part. And as I said in my story, there is always going to be lots of fingerpointing and scapegoating in cases like this. So I am not sure it would be possible to try to understand what went wrong. Bernadette

Asking if Fashion Cares is “terminally ill" on the front page of today's Fashion Section of the Toronto Star is horrifically insensitive and offensive. Have you forgotten what Fashion Cares is really about? People living with HIV/AIDS receive vital supports and services as a result of the funds raised by Fashion Cares. It is one thing to debate whether the show has run its course, but please show some respect and sensitivity. Jill McNall

Point taken, Jill. Absolutely Fashion Cares is about Aids. But I think there was more talk about Canada's Next Top Model on the Fashion Cares stage than that tragic disease. Bernadette

Yes, it felt like every performer on stage had to plug their next project. Every time Jay Manuel came out he mentioned Canada's Next Top Model - that was irritating for most people after awhile. But we can go on endlessly about what when wrong with the event. How are they going to fix it for next year? There's a lot at stake obviously. It's going to be a battle to get sponsors and the public to come out next year and support this. One solution someone suggested is to try bring in a popular gay icon to lure the crowd back. Someone like Elton John or Barbara Striesand perhaps. Derick

Or Cher! The real one, not the pretend one roaming around Fashion Cares on Saturday night! Bernadette

Do you think the new ticket price ($1000/person) was a slap in the
face to the many people who have supported Fashion Cares from the
beginning, for many years, but are now unable to afford the new ticket
price?

Also, did this new ticket price bring in more money for the
fundraiser?  Or was roughly the same amount raised (higher ticket
price, but fewer people)? Hannah

That is one of the questions I wanted to ask ACT, Hannah. From what I have learned, they are hoping that the television show will bring in more funds. Thanks, everyone, for this chat. I know we all hope that the past glory of this event can be revived. Bernadette

Choosing merch

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and stylist Derick Chetty discuss how Derick chooses merchandise to photograph for his Shopping News column. Send your comments to nakedlunch@thestar or click on the comments link below.

Handmade shell necklace, $995, Kumari's, 94 Cumberland St.

So Derick, how do you come up with story ideas for your column? Bernadette

Judging by some readers' comments, I think they think it is all rather random. It's not. For this week's cover story on necklaces, I wanted to feature something new about necklaces. Aren't we tired of beads on a string? I know I'm tired of seeing another "designer" jewellery collection which is basicly beads strung on a string. I'm sure there is a huge market for that but it's not newsy.

The necklace idea started with a fab piece I saw at Noir on Bloor St. W. The necklace was made of eyeglass lenses strung together. I thought how original was that!

Another local designer I met showed me a necklace he fashioned entirely out of coloured plastic spoons - a one of a kind piece.

Suddenly everywhere I went I was seeing wierd oversized necklaces. The windows at Kumari's (94 Cumberland St.) featured giant necklaces made with shells. At Holt Renfrew, there were some showpieces by Chloe, Marni and Etro. Which of course, reminded me that yes, I had seen the trend on the runways in Paris and Milan. Derick

But if the Noir necklace and the plastic spoon necklace sparked your story idea, why aren't they in the newspaper? Bernadette

It comes down to editing and availability. The spoon necklace was one of a kind. And the Noir necklace was expensive. We can only feature so many items on the pages. I wanted to include the designer Susie Love because we have never featured anything by her. She makes a lot of whimsical jewellery. Check out her site at www.myspace.com/susielovesfun. And her prices were very inexpensive considering no two piece are alike.

I also wanted to include local designer Basia on Dupont St. Readers can go to her store where she has many more interesting jewellery to select from.

And I felt it was important to feature some designer pieces like Marni for those avid fashionistas. Derick

You mentionned that you didn't include Noir because the necklace was expensive. But the necklace from Kumari's in the main photo on the Fashion front page is $995. How do you define expensive? Bernadette

Some people might find that expensive but there was a customer waiting to buy the Kumari necklace when the staff arrived to open the store this morning! Similar pieces sold soon after the store opened, also to people who had seen it in the newspaper. Our readership is broad and definitely includes people who can afford a $995 necklace.

Also Mother's Day is a special occasion so people might tend to splurge. Derick

So do you balance price against how eye-catching something is going to be in newsprint? Bernadette

I think the most important - yes, even before price - is how eye-catching the item is and how well it photographs. And of course, is it new - as in unusual and newsy. But of course, I also try to balance it by having a few pieces that are wallet-friendly. Derick

You used to work at Flare. Is there a difference between what you would choose for a magazine and the items you select for the newspaper? Bernadette

Yes, there is a difference. At a fashion magazine, it is a lot more niche. Stories are very focused on runway trends. Here at The Star, I've learned to look at many difference angles. The street, major events, pop culture all contribute to how and what we cover in the Fashion section. With the huge readership we have, including the majority of non-fashion followers, it is important to look beyond the runway for trends.

In terms of how products are selected here is my checklist: the item must be available to purchase somewhere in the city. I must have a variety of price points and a variety of stores include chain stores since they are widespread and have a greater reach with our readers across the province. Also, this is newsprint. There are some products that will be difficult to photograph and also a lot of quality is lost in the reproduction in newsprint. For example, when it comes to jewellery, bigger, bolder and colour works best for us as opposed to fine, delicate, chain-like items - which of course would not be a problem for a glossy magazine. Derick

As an independant jewelry designer who currently sells direct to customers at shows like One-of-a-Kind, how can this work be showcased? Lori Cranson

We get many, many emails, calls and letters from jewellery designers who want us to write about them. In fact, that is one of the reasons I wanted Erin Kobayashi to profile some new young designers on page 3 of today's fashion section. Erin and I went over the many submissions we received over the past few months. We looked at the designers' work on their websites and iwe debated who to put in her story. In the end we chose the group that we felt had newer, fresher-looking designs. There was one more young man we were going to include but he does bracelets and necklaces and we only had room for the one photo of the rings on the spoon. So we hope to feature him sometime down the road.

If you send us information about your work, we will consider you next time we feature jewellery. However, bear in mind we probably won't do that for a while - at least not until there is fresh news in jewellery or a news hook like Christmas gifts. Bernadette

Winners vs. The Bay

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra, stylist Derick Chetty and fashion writer Erin Kobayashi are discussing Winners' new designer department called The Runway, and The Bay's new Baia collection. Send your thoughts to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below.

Designer outfits from The Runway, a new department at Winners.

Winners has opened a new "department" called The Runway, which promises the world's most coveted designer labels for far less than luxury boutique prices. This morning we fanned out to 3 of the 4 Toronto stores. I went to Bloor St., Derick went to College Park and Erin went to Lawrence and Bathurst. I arrived at Bloor St. at 8:30 (it had opened at 8). There was a black carpet and white balloons out front, and a guy inside the doorway serving muffins and coffee. It looked like they were expecting a line-up of people but the store was dead - just me, a couple of Russian shoppers, a youngish Asian woman with a huge Chanel caviar purse, and a very elegant older lady in Escada casuals. How was the Lawrence store? Bernadette

Muffins and coffee?!  Lucky you!  I went hungry, the Bathurst and Lawrence store did not offer shoppers that!  I also arrived at 8:30 and the store was quiet but at around 9 am, it picked up and customers were steering shopping carts full of designer clothes.  It was like watching bumper cars, a lot of carts were smashing into one another.  I met one Winners shopper who attends every special event at the store and she had two shopping carts full of designer clothes for herself and her daughter.  She thought the selection was phenomenal but I was less impressed.  What I noticed first was the Pucci and Missoni labels, bright colourful prints that stood out on the floor.  Erin

Yes, there were some Pucci T-shirts at Bloor St., too, for $139.99. But I didn't see any Missoni. I did find some Valentino including a champagne-coloured pleated charmeuse skirt which was half price, from $1,000 to $499.99. There were a few pretty Valentino floral skirts and a pink cashmere blend cardigan with cream lace appliques for $479.99, which I still found quite pricey since I have a feeling they weren't from his top, top collection. Likewise there were jackets from Donna Karan's Signature collection which I don't think is her top line. Bernadette

When I first arrived I met the pr rep, Shannon, at Bloor St. and she explained that many of the labels (which SHE isn't allowed to mention because of agreements with Winners' vendors) have been carried in their stores before. But rather than making the customer pick through all the middle of the road lines to find the rare designer label, Winners will now group the higher end pieces together with signage that reads, "The Runway." Winners has also had "designer events" twice a year in the past, Shannon explained, where higher end pieces would be available across the country. But now, they will be carried in a regular basis in a smaller group of stores.

But I still felt like it was a bit of an Easter egg hunt. There were some Chanel and Gucci sunglasses behind the jewelry counter, and a couple of Valentino purses in the handbag area. Though some of the racks did have The Runway signs on them, they weren't necessarily "the world's most coveted brands." For instance, there was quite a lot of Pink Tartan, Cynthia Steffe in the Bloor St. mix. However I did see a fantastic khaki suede Moschino Cheap and Chic blazer for around $250. Bernadette

I went to the College Park location around 8:30am and not a lot of shoppers were around which made it easy to peruse the racks. The "Runway" section is located right at the front. And yes, coffee, muffins and bagels were served to give a bit of a happening. First thing I zeroed in on was a rack of Pucci. The classic print dresses trimmed with feathers, some fantastic bags and shoes also by Pucci. Another fab find was a Narciso Rodriguez gown - a label you don't often come across in a discount retailer. The Versace stuff looked several seasons too old but there were some cute jackets by Alberta Ferretti. And yes there were brand name sunglasses like Dior, Gucci and YSL but in the wrong shapes - tiny. You need big sunglasses this season. I was surprised that some of the signage on the racks actually had the designer names, I thought they were not allowed to advertise the labels. Derick

Shannon, the pr person, explained that Winners is allowed to display the designer names they carry on in-store signage. But they aren't allowed to advertise those names outside the stores. I also found some Alberta Ferretti, but it was the less-expensive Philosophy collection. And I got a pair of huge purple Gucci sunglasses for $99. Did you guys buy anything? Bernadette

I didn't buy anything. The "Runway" section does not have men's. I did wander around and was surprised to see a shoe section with lots of men's shoes. We get so caught up with designer labels sometimes you forget that the top tier names can sometimes churn out mediocre merchandise - especially the secondary lines. I came across a black velour hoodie by Emporio Armani but when I touched it the fabric was hideous. Derick

I didn't buy anything either.  If they had my size though, I would purchase a little black dress with leopard lining by Dolce and Gabanna that they were selling for $699.99.  The little black dresses didn't look as dated as the other pieces they were selling.  I saw a white leather jacket by Versace that looked like it was from the 80s.  A cute accessory I saw was a Versace i-Pod case but it only came in one colour.  That's the problem, the selection is very limited in terms of size and colour availability.  One shopper remarked, "it looks like stuff that didn't sell the first time around."  She was holding a green, silk Pink Tartan dress.  I don't understand why Pink Tartan was being featured though, because I have seen that label at Winners before.  Erin

Outfit from Baia, a new private label collection at The Bay.

So the bottom line is that The Runway isn't mind-blowing. It's still somewhat hit and miss in terms of selection and the pieces can be dated. In that case, for a woman who is looking for a lot of style at a good price, is The Bay's new Baia collection the answer? And how is that label pronounced, by the way? Bernadette

It's pronounced bay-a. I'm not sure I like the name but it's a great selection of office attire for professional women. Skirt suits, the little black dress in lightweight wool and knit separates. If you're looking for special occasion pieces, you might have to look at Winners or The Bay's high end department, The Room. Derick

The quality of the Baia clothing is high.  I noticed that everything except a few lightweight sweaters were made in Canada.  I thought the best pieces were the basic ones, the pencil skirts and the suits which were streamlined and looked slimming on the models.  They also sell the clothes from size 4 to 16, it was nice not to see Baia jumping into vanity sizing and making size 0. Erin

Baia is designed by a team who used to do Holt Renfrew private label. Is it Holt Renfrew calibre in terms of styling? Or is it more middle-of-the-road? Bernadette

I wouldn't call it middle-of-the-road. It is classic with a nod to current runway trends. There was a black and white striped top that was quite Edie Sedgewick. The skirt suit is already poised to be a hit for next season. And I loved the little cropped white jacket trimmed with black for $375. Derick

It sounds kind of Banana Republic. Bernadette

It looked it in terms of that polished professional workwear. And the prices seemed similar. But I do think the quality is there. You can feel the quality in the fabrics. Derick

I will definitely check out Baia for myself, both personally and professionally! Bernadette

Oscar Bow-tox

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and shopping columnist Rita Zekas discuss the 2007 Oscar night fashions, below. Send your thoughts to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

Nicole Kidman matches the carpet at the 79th Annual Academy Awards.

Can we start with Nicole Kidman? What was that thing around her neck? She was bow-toxed. Remember Charlize Theron at last year’s Oscars? She looked like Xmas gift wrapping. Rita

I felt the same way when I saw Nicole on the red carpet. The red Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquiere was puzzling. You couldn't quite make out what that loop of red was on her shoulder. But then I realized there is a big difference between how things look on the red carpet - where the cameras are positioned quite high - and the Oscar stage. From a high angle the bow at her neck wasn’t particularly flattering. But watching her at eye-level when she was presenting the evening‘s first award, she was absolute perfection. A pure sliver of red with a swoop of silk at her jaw. I loved it. Bernadette

I liked Nicole Kidman’s hair - straight with a side part. Gwyneth Paltrow‘s hair was the same and it was great. Everyone else looked like they had pulled their hair back in a knot after gym class. Philip Seymor Hoffman looked like he was up all night chewing on his hair. Rita

And what about Reese Witherspoon with the fringed bangs and the extensions? Wow. She looked great. Her dress was extraordinary too - a cascade of plum-coloured ruffles by Olivier Theyskens, the new designer for Nina Ricci. Bernadette

Poor Meryl Streep, she looked like she’d been to Albuquerque and back with the coral beads and black dress that looked like a big wrapper. Like she forgot her dress and wore her houscoat. Rita

DANNY MOLOSHOK/AP

Penelope Cruz arrives at the annual Vanity Fair Oscar party at Morton's in West Hollywood, Calif.

But I like that on the red carpet Meryl admitted to a reporter that she is a size 14. I think that was her way of saying, 'I can’t compete with these Hollywood lollipops.' But she usually looks amazing in an Armani suit or gown. This look was very gypsy fortune teller. Bernadette

Penelope Cruz looked like the lady on top of the toilet rolls. The top of her dress (tucked panels) didn’t match the bottom (an explosion of ruffles). It was like two dresses fighting. And Jennifer Lopez's empire dress with crystal neckline had too much going on. She looked like a Pekinese. Or like she was appearing in a dinner theatre production of Cleopatra. Rita

Penelope looked much better at the Vanity Fair after party. She changed into a pearl-covered couture dress from the Chanel archive. Cameron Diaz's Oscar frock looked like she was wrapped in white serviettes. And her deflated updo was painful - like she had been trampled by the Piloboulos dance troupe. Bernadette

Gym rat hair, again. Emily Blunt looked great in that amazing blue sequinned gown from Calvin Klein. What did you think of Helen Mirren? Rita

AMY SANCETTA/AP

Jennifer Hudson and her Best Supporting Actress Oscar.

I thought the pale Christian Lacroix was very pretty and somewhat sexy with the decollete. There was lots of detailed embroidery and beading on the bodice which I can imagine would have been breathtaking in person. The dress didn't have huge impact on camera, but at least it didn't eclipse her either, which I think is a good thing. Bernadette

What happened to all the weight that Andre Leon Talley lost? He looked like the whole Blue Man Group. And someone should tell Beyonce Knowles that she doesn’t have to be Diana Ross all the time. The white beads swooping across the front of her dress looked like psoriasis.

Jennifer Hudson’s brown jersey gown by Oscar de la Renta was good but the Tin Man jacket was a problem. Of the three Dreamgirls, Anika Noni Rose was the winner in the metallic sequinned dress with plunging decollete. She was spot on glamour. Rita

REED SAXON/AP

Jodi Foster arriving for the Oscars.

I kind of liked Jennifer Hudson's full metal jacket. It covered up the spaghetti straps that looked like they could have given out at any moment. Later at the after party, she was busting out of a beige sequinned and embroidered gown. I do love that she is working those curves and that 100 per cent God-given cleavage. Although one of her breasts nearly escaped from the red gown she wore to perform in. Bernadette

Did you see Jodi Foster? She is usually very controlled in Armani. But her hair was feathered and her blue Vera Wang matched her blue eyes and her blue earrings. She looked stunning. But what about Anne Hathaway? Another bow tox. It wasn't Valentino's best night. Rita

REUTERS

Actress Anne Hathaway arrives at the 79th Annual Academy Awards.

Yes, but that dress with the big black bow steamrolled onto the chest will probably be "reinterpreted" by H & M, and Zara and the other knock-off retailers for the prom season. As will the other top trends of the night: shimmering metallic silks and asymmetry. And I loved the off white vs. off black tug of war. Ecru and beige gowns vs. gunmetal and navy. I also loved the multiple diamond bracelets that so many actresses wore. Some piled so many on they looked like a tangled mess of diamonds. I love it! It's a look that can easily be copied in crystals and rhinestones. Bernadette

Holt's new shoes

A Jimmy Choo shoe from the new Holt Renfrew shoe salon at 50 Bloor St. W.

The Holt Renfrew flagship at 50 Bloor St. W. has a new shoe salon. It officially opened this week with a swish cocktail party for press and the store's best customers. Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and life writer Rita Zekas were there, and discuss the city's newest shoe mecca below. Send your comments to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link at the end of the discussion.

It doesn't look like the footprint of the new show department has changed at all. It's in the same mezzanine location and seems to be the same dimensions. I wonder if people will notice that anything has changed. What do you think? Bernadette

If I closed my eyes, spun around three times and opened them again it would be, "I think we're still in Kansas, Toto." I agree. It looks like deja vu all over again except for the inclusion of some new brands. Rita

But I find the selection much more elegant. Now that all the Browns private label has been taken away, what is left is a much more refined point of view. I don't miss the clunky rubber soled sport shoes at all. It almost feels like a mini-Barneys designer shoe department. Am I wrong? Bernadette

No, I don't think you are wrong but they took away private label and replaced it with Kork-Ease. What is that all about? I loved that they brought in the funky Biba brand from London - a swinging '60s throwback. There was a great platform spectator pump that had nothing to do with Great Gatsby. And Tori Burch is a great addition for the ladies who lunch brigade. But with all the space still relegated to Stuart Weitzman, the Tommy Hilfiger of shoes, I can't help thinking it more a mini-Saks designer shoe department than Barney's. I thought the shoe of the night was the green faux python platform from Gil Carvalho that went for $695. One shoe-aholic who has 400 pairs of shoes was practically salivating as she was snapping them up. But who is Gil Carvalho? Rita

I was wondering the same. There are all these unknown names, along with Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Prada and Gucci. I know we need to break away from the major players and give other cobblers a chance, but shoe designers have become stars in their own right. Holt's is so conscious of having the stars of fashion, I was surprised to see so many unknown brands. On the other hand, because they are in Holt's I feel like I have to give them a chance. Holt's wouldn't carry them if they weren't cool, right? Bernadette

Exactly. The cool factor is important to Holt's and even though they stock the obligatory red soles of Louboutin, kudos to them for giving new designers a platform, so to speak. Holt's is just getting with the program, what with the advent of stores like H & M going with stunt designers like Victor & Rolf to mix it up. The era of the label whore, top to bottom with the double C's of Chanel, is over, though I did see some of it at the other night's opening party. And the price points seem to be more accessible, now that $250 shoes are becoming the norm in stores like Town Shoes and even Aldo. Or are we just jaded? Is a $680 platform reasonable? Rita

I was surprised at the prices too. There was a metallic blue thong from Prada for $350 and Manolos in the $475 range. Or maybe that was the Jimmy Choo patent flat. And I recall an amazing gold python Weitzman sandal for $225, I think. I thought I was hallucinating. I was starting to get that fashion fever feeling where I completely lose control and shop like a madwoman. Luckily the party was crowded and it was late and I was too tired to make the effort. However I am going back to try on the nude patent Manolo maryjane and the black pointy toe flat. And there were several Louboutin pumps which I loved, especially the open toe ones. I think I spent $3,000 in my head in the first 15 minutes I was there. Bernadette

Yes, there were shoes I was lusting over as well but I have vowed not to buy spring/summer shoes while there is still snow on the ground. The last time I dropped major coinage over a pair of Dolce & Gabbans slides, by the time it was warm enough to wear them, they were marked down to half price. That said, there was a healthy amount of retail happening at the party, perhaps spurred on by the lethal combination of alcohol and shoes. Credit cards and vodka don't mix. Also, didn't you love the clips of shoe-buying frenzy from Sex and the City playing in the background? Rita

Yes, it's that air of permissivenes which is so dangerous. But at least shoes are not as harmful to one's health as some other addictions. Now, how do we think Holt's new shoe salon compares to Zola. Should Zola's owner, Debra Anissimoff, be worried? Part of me thinks not, because Zola's atmosphere is so different from Holt's. More intimate. Then again, walking into Zola feels like a commitment. Holt's shoe department is so easy to float in and out of on your way to the cafe or the women's washroom. Bernadette

I don't think Zola's owner Debra Anissimoff is losing sleep over Holt's new shoe department because Zola is more niche, more boutique than department store. Holt's stocks the tried and/or tired and true while Zola prides itself with discovering the new big thing before it is the new big thing. Zola stocks more obscure designers, and though Holt's is going that way, their clientele is not as experimental. The Holt's shopper likes to be taken by the hand and assured that the $900 they are plunking down for the latest Prada/Gucci/Chanel is the dernier cri but not too far out there. The Zola shopper likes to be surprised and educated. Besides, the Zola location way up in the boonies on Avenue Rd. north of Lawrence is a real schlep. But once there, you almost feel that you should buy something given the massive trek. It's Zola's second, Yorkville location that has to be a tad nonplussed about the new lines Holt's is carrying. Is there enough distance between the two stores? Is there enough to go around? Rita

I think this city is big enough and shoe-crazed enough to support Holt's and Zola, as well as Corbo, Davids, Specchio and all the mall chains too!

On another note, should we mention Holt's measly new men's department? I don't know why they even bothered. Bernadette

Fashion File Host Hunt

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and stylist Derick Chetty are discussing the premiere episode of Fashion File Host Hunt on CBC Newsworld. Send your thoughts now to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below.

First of all, can we talk about theconcept of Fashion File Host Hunt as a whole? This reality series auditioned people from across the country, narrowing the pool down to 10 contestants. Each week they have to perform some activity upon which they will be judged, with one person eliminated each week. The one left standing gets Tim Blanks’ job. Isn’t that something of an insult to Tim? It’s making a circus out of role that Tim has brought a great deal of integrity, intelligence and journalistic ability to. Bernadette

I felt that way when I first heard about the reality show concept to look for the next host. How can they pluck someone from street and award them with this job that requires so many different skills? However, reconsidering it, I think it was a business decision. Reality shows are hugely popular right now. And this is nothing new for the fashion industry with Project Runway and America’s Next Top Model. Also MuchMusic uses a similar format to find the next VJ. I think that Host Hunt actually makes the CBC look a bit hip. Derick

Judging by the first episode, this will be just as entertaining and engaging as some of the other reality series. Though I have to say it was very difficult to watch when they were critiquing the three lower-scoring contestants at the end of the show. I understand that drama makes for good television. But I felt sick at the way Manny Neubacher was treated. Did Bronwyn Cosgrave have to be so mean? She seemed to take great pleasure in telling him he was cut. Or do I feel that way because Manny is a personal acquaitance? I don’t know him well at all but our paths do cross on the local party/social scene. Bernadette

I agree the bitchiness makes for good television. I also know a few of the contestants and really felt for them! But let’s face it, that bitchiness is what will keep people tuning in. Do you think people watch American Idol for the singing??? But I think Bronwyn was probably playing a role - the cold fashionista. Also keep in mind these contestants voluntarily entered this contest. They had to have known it was going to be tough. And we both know that was nothing compared to some of the people we encounter at the shows! Better to let them know right at the start it is going to be a rough ride - especially for the person who wins the gig. Derick

Well, we are not all cold fashionistas. At least not all of the time. Anyway, do you agree that Manny should have been the first person to be eliminated? I don’t. I feel that the comedy writer should have been the first one to go. He, to use a phrase from the show, just isn’t fashion. His raggedy sweater, spotted trousers and completely inappropriate scarf was an insult to any of us who takes fashion seriously. It is evident he doesn’t know a thing about fashion. And worse he doesn’t care. I guess that is the crux of it. The person has to have some sense of reverence for the industry and the profession. Bernadette

I must say I was surprised that Manny was the first to go. I didn’t think he was the weakest. But again, what will make for good television? I think Paul - our leopard print friend - will certainly provoke strong reactions. There will certainly be those that love him and those that hate him. And that is the sort of fuel that will drive this show and make people tune in. My favourite so far is Jamey. She looked really polished, well-spoken and looked confident without being cocky. Who are you placing bets on? Derick

I like Jamey too but I wonder if her weight will be an issue. I hate to bring that up, but I think it’s an obvious point of discussion. Television presenters are generally average in size. And my guess is that the producers of Fashion File will not deviate too much in looks from the television industry standard. In fact, I have a sense that the show executives have a very strong idea of who they want for the host. I also think they want to completely change the aesthetic of the show - knock down the highbrow attitude and make it much more “real.” I think that Host Hunt is a huge clue as to what Fashion File will become post-Tim Blanks. And in that sense, this whole Host Hunt thing feels like something of an exercise with an inevitable conclusion. Bernadette

True. But they also have some insurance. The host gig is only a one year contract. This is a very serious gig - and that point is driven home with some of the tasks the contestants have to complete. I thought that first one with the focus group was very difficult. Imagine having to stand in a room alone in front of mirror - no visual clues - and deliver a monologue on why you would be perfect for the gig. Derick

I disagree completely. That was the perfect exercise to determine how a person will appear on camera. A mirror is pretty much what you see when you look into a television camera. And people who are good on TV are natural talkers. They just talk, talk, talk-it’s instinctive and unself-conscious. TV people are born, not made.

Can I just add that I do like the guy who is the buyer. I think he is quite polished and would be able to stand up to the demands of the job. I also like the actress, Mary Kitchen I think her name is. But it will remain to be seen how she does when fashion knowledge is required. I also like the young man who is just out of journalism school. Even if he doesn’t win the job, I think we’ll be seeing more of him somewhere along the way. Bernadette

Hockey's New Look

The NHL will reveal new, slimmed-down player jerseys on Monday at a press conference in Dallas. The Star's Kevin McGran will be at the unveiling, so send your questions now to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below. Then join Kevin and The Star's fashion stylist Derick Chetty after Monday's 1 p.m. press conference, for a discussion on the NHL's new look.

The design of the Leaf jersey is not going to change. That is to say the team jerseys that have stripes will still have stripes. The All Star uniforms do not have stripes but that doesn't mean any of teams will change and go with no stripes. The traditional uniforms will still have the same look but just in the new material. Kevin McGran

They don't look that much different then the old jerseys.They may not flow as much when the players are skating really fast but they are the team colours people recognize. The material is what is different. It looks like a hockey uniform made out of space-age material. The socks aren't woollen any more, they are made out of the same new material that the sweaters are made from. Players may not need to tape their socks any more. Some may still tape the socks because that's what they are used to. That's their superstition. I heard players say if they want a loose fit, they'll get themselves a bigger sweater. The sweaters look a bit like team practise jersey's because they don't have the team stripe. I'm not sure I'm a fan of the colouring underneath the armpits. The Western Conference uniform is dark blue and the armpits are white. The Eastern Conference uniforms are white with red trim in the armpits. I think it looks silly. Kevin McGran

Kevin is in Dallas and has just taken a look at the new uniforms that are on display at the media conference where they are being unveiled. Tell us your first reaction? Derick Chetty

Fans really do hate Gary Bettman, so they won't like anything tthat he produces. The new jersey's reflect that hockey is being played in hot cities and will help keep the players cooler. Kevin McGran

 Bettman and the NHL bigwigs care only about MONEY. If they truly cared about the game they'd leave the jerseys (actually, the correct moniker is sweater) but who's sweating over the name -- its the look, the fit, the feel, the history, the emotional attachment that we as fans have with the sweaters. I hope the NHL players refuse to wear them. Brent in Calgary

Extreme uniform dressing

Life writer Trish Crawford, who wore the same suit for a month and wrote about the experience in a recent Life section story, discusses her adventure and readers' reactions with fashion editor Bernadette Morra. Post your comments below or send them to nakedlunch@thestar.ca.

Toronto Star Life writer Trish Crawford in the suit she wore for 30 days with no one, except her husband, noticing.

Trish, how did it feel wearing the same non-descript pantsuit for an entire month, even on weekends? On the one hand I imagine it would be liberating, but on the other it could be depressing. Bernadette

It was definitely depressing because I had picked such a drab colour, grey. I was cursing myself by the third or fourth day because it was also a rainy November. What is bizarre about this is that I had recently bought another grey suit, which I did take back. Only when I realized that I was getting ready about 20 minutes faster each morning did I grasp the fact that it was also liberating. No decisions to make! Trish

How much attention do you pay to your dress, normally. How much of a priority is "fashion"? Bernadette

Well, unfortunately, not enough. When I was younger, I spent much more time looking in the stores to see what the new styles were and made sure I had something from the new season. Lately, looking professional and neat seemed to be more important. Also, I almost exclusively buy clothes that I think are "slimming". That's why I picked that suit in the first place, I knew my picture would be taken in it. Trish

So how did Toronto Star readers react? Bernadette

It turns out I really touched a nerve. Lots of people wear the same thing every day out of preference. There are husbands who won't take off their sweat shirts no matter how much their wives plead. There are frugal people who buy cheap dark clothes and let their personalities shine. One young girl got locked out of her apartment by her landlord and didn't want to buy a new wardrobe while the matter got sorted. Most people thought it was very funny. Trish

What surprised you most about reaction to this story? Bernadette

Well, my first surprise was that no one noticed me in the newsroom. I wasn't prepared for that. I thought I'd be fielding zingers from all the wisecrackers in the office. I am close friends with many of my co-workers and I just couldn't get over the fact they didn't see what was right in front of their faces. Their reaction to the story was great hilarity, the joke is on all of us. And that seems to be what the readers feel -- no one really notices day to day things, just unusual or out-of-the-ordinary actions or clothing. Trish

But isn't it somewhat comforting to know that people are not judging you by your appearance? Obviously, there is much more to you than what you wear. Bernadette

People said the nicest things to me afterwards such as how I have an animated face or an outgoing personality. Those are the things people notice. So, in fact, this is a wonderful lesson that we are not just our clothes. People do look beneath the surface. But that doesn't mean clothes don't matter at all. I bought a party outfit during the month that I wore to the symphony and I was happy all night long because I was dressed up. Trish

Yes, but I am not sure that we can generalize from your experience. Some people, unfortunately, do judge others by what they are wearing and not much else. Isn't there a famous story, or perhaps urban myth, of Ronnie Hawkins going into a Rolls Royce dealership and being snubbed? I am sure such things happen all the time. I recall some really shabby profs at university who sure didn't look like they were very on the ball. Bernadette

You are totally right, we do judge others by what they are wearing "in context". For instance, my blah suit fit within the context of a middleaged woman working in a newsroom. A bikini, heaven forbid, would have been very, very wrong. Skateboarders have trouble getting into the country club because they don't fit in. Men in business suits stand out at the baseball game. You can wear ski pants into a bar in the Alps but not on King St. We use clothes to sort people. That way we know who the salesclerks, priests, rappers and movie stars are. Trish

So how has this experienced changed how you dress? Bernadette

I am kind of stuck with my current wardrobe for a while because I can't afford a wholesale revamp. Needless to say, I am not going to wear the grey suit again. But, as well, I am paying more attention to accessories and make-up too. I did pick out a fabulous pair of green skis and bought kooky blue/green eye glasses during the experiment. In the future, I have decided on two rules. I must have more colour and more skirts or dresses. Too many sensible pants suits makes Trish a dull girl. Trish

The ultimate little black dress

Fashion editor Bernadette Morra and stylist Derick Chetty discuss little black dresses, and the iconic image that launched this fashion classic, below. Send your thoughts to nakedlunch@thestar.ca or click on the comments link below.

Derick, earlier this week the little black dress that Audrey Hepburn wore in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's sold at auction in London for the equivalent of $807,000 U.S. Surely that must make that dress, designed by Hubert de Givenchy, the ultimate fashion classic. Bernadette

The LBD is an enduring classic despite the whims of fashion. It's always a safe choice when uncertain of what to wear, it requires little effort in terms of accessorizing and it transcends age and body size issues. I was recently in The Bay on Queen Street and there was an entire dress department dedicated to black cocktail dresses. Obviously this classic is a bestseller. Derick

But $807,000 U.S.? How could a garment have that much value? Bernadette

It was reported in today's WWD that the house of Givenchy was the bidder that bought the famous Audrey Hepburn dress. Since designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the garment for the iconic scene in Breakfast at Tiffany's, it's no surprise they would want to get their hands on that dress for their archives. But I agree that's an awful lot of money. There must have been a lot of feverish bidding. Derick

Okay, that makes a lot of sense. LVMH, which own Givenchy, has deep pockets. And I'll bet the other bidders included the Metropolitan Museum of New York, which would have wanted the dress for their Costume Institute. And I wonder whether LVMH's rival PPR was bidding too, helping jack up the price.

It's great news for the charity that benefits from the sale of this dress. I also think that because the Breakfast at Tiffany dress was such a statement of elegance and refinement, it added to the value. Ever since that film, women have felt that putting on a LBD guaranteed a certain Audrey Hepburn aura of good taste. Wearing that dress in that film on that character, has made the LBD a foolproof fashion choice. Bernadette

Yes, but it walks the line of boredom - especially when you are in a room and everyone is wearing LBDs - as was the case last week at Bloor Street Entertains. Perhaps one should try to inject a bit of their own personality with the outfit. Grand chandelier earrings, elbow length gloves, killer metallic heels or a really ornate clutch. Derick

So true. I saw a photo of America Ferrera, the actress who plays Ugly Betty, on a red carpet somewhere. She was wearing the LBD and pearls and it didn't work. It looked totally generic and dull. Maybe two fashion classics in one outfit is too much? Bernadette

But they sort of go together - a little black dress and pearls. Maybe not all personalities suit the LBD. Derick

I also think that, unless a face, hair or accessories are really compelling, the LBD can fall completely flat in photos. That is why I loathe seeing black bridesmaid dresses. The wedding pictures always look horrible. Black doesn't convey the joy of a wedding day. And put that dress on a real person and it quickly becomes clear, there was only one Audrey Hepburn! Bernadette