z_Naked Lunch

Tunic tutorial

This week, Star stylist Derick Chetty and fashion editor Bernadette Morra discussed tunics and sweater dresses. You can still send your thoughts on their discussion to nakedlunch@thestar.ca, and join us again next week for another Naked Lunch.

Derick, you must have looked at every tunic in the city for today's cover story, but you only showed one, in black from Club Monaco. Why did you choose this one for your story? Bernadette

The tunic showed up in many designers' fall collections and was styled differently at each show.  However, once I started looking for tunics, I found many retailers/designers/showrooms were confused as to what a tunic was.  So many varieties arrived at our office, I had to look up the definition in the Fairchild Fashion dictionary just to make sure what a tunic was! Some people sent me jumpers instead of tunics. The jumper is also a fall trend, but has two straps over shoulder that fasten with a button and must be worn with something underneath, ie turtleneck or blouse. A tunic is a straight  loose fitting knee length dress. The dress at Club Monaco fits this description to a tee.  Derick

Did you see any other tunic dresses in stores that you also liked? Bernadette

Not really, no. There were other dresses but they had darts and were more shaped. So I didn't feel that they fit the definition of a tunic. Derick

Could you not substitute a regular dress for a tunic and style it in the same way that you did on today's cover? Bernadette

No. A dress is more limiting in terms of how you can style it. You can put a jacket over it, or wear it with leggings. But because of the fit, you can't really layer under a dress. That is the difference. Derick

Okay, now what is the difference between a tunic and a sweater dress? They look quite similar to me. Bernadette

A sweater dress is bulkier than a tunic so you shouldn't use it as a layering piece. Also, sweater dresses often have a roll-neck or cowl, so you can't put anything under them. The most you can add to to the sweater dress are leggings. Derick

I read in several fashion magazines that the jumper dress is coming back for fall. I had one many years ago and would like to buy another. Do you know a store in Toronto where I might be able to find one?

You can find a tweed jumper dress at Aritzia right now. Also check Holt Renfrew which has several by different designers. I highly recommend the one by 3.1 Phillip Lim. It looks modern worn with a crisp white shirt or a black turtleneck underneath without coming across like a private school girl. Derick

Also you should look in your closet and see if there are any sleeveless dresses that can be worn as jumpers. For instance, I have a glossy denim scoop-neck dress by Joeffer Caoc that I wore this summer with bare arms. For fall, I plan to wear it with a black turtleneck. I also bought a brown jersey Grecian-style empire dress at Banana Republic recently. I love this dress! I have been wearing it as a sundress this summer, but plan to layer it over turtlenecks right through winter. Bernadette

What is with the gorilla sleeves on these dresses?  How are you supposed to wear them when the sleeves come down to your knees? I'm not a fashionista so please forgive my naivete. Jackie

Hi Jackie. I agree that some of the sleeves in Derick's sweater dress story on page B5 look extra-long. I saw the dresses and even tried the brown one from Vince on (but it added too much extra bulk!). I do not recall the sleeves being gorilla-like but yes, they do appear exaggerated in the newspaper. I think gravity might have played a factor. Some of the dresses are knit from heavy yarn, so when they were placed on the judy the weight of the sleeves may have stretched them slightly. Also, I think that the photographer's angle may have further exaggerated the sleeve length. Bernadette

I saw the sweater dress feature in the paper today and wondered why would any woman want to wear that? Wouldn't it stretch out around the bum and would it not make you look fat?

The sweater dress is indeed a tricky thing to wear. And no, you don't have to look fat wearing one. Pick a knit that is a fine gauge rather than a chunky cable variety and stick to a solid colour in a turtleneck style that is actually very slimming. Derick

Try TNT in Hazelton Lanes or Eglinton Ave. for fine gauge sweater dresses. TNT has a knitwear collection called Line and as I recall it includes fine gauge knits. But I sympathize with the reader below. I have not yet found a sweater dress that doesn't cling to my hips and tummy! Bernadette

What kids wear

Today David Graham discussed his story - Back to the Fashion Battles - in which child development experts say that kids should be allowed to wear what they want, that it's a safe and healthy form of growth. Do you agree or not? Send your comments to nakedlunch@thestar.ca.

And join us again next Thursday for another Naked Lunch chat.

Humans are very tribal. I think that we dress like peers in order to feel we belong. Just look at the various cliques in schools - they each have their own code of dress. And it continues on as we get older too. How many of us feel that we need the season's "it" purse in order to be accepted by our fashion peers? Or that we must wear Prada on our feet? Is that necessarily a bad thing? Or does it mean that we fashion enthusiasts simply have not matured? That we are still insecure children at heart? Bernadette

I think a lot of kids appropriate the look without embracing the associated lifestyle. How many kids in the sixties dressed like hippies without necessarily taking an anti-war stance? We have to presume they are innocent. The real gift here is that some kids literally wear their emotions on their sleeve and they may be presenting an opportunity to talk about what goth means to them and why they find the look appealing. David

As a parent, I am not so worried about the fashions, but about the lifestyle that may be associated with certain "looks". For instance, if a teenagers gets a Mohawk hairstyle, are they doing drugs with their friends? Bernadette

Thanks for your comments. Mostly, as an adult deeply embedded in the workforce I agree with you. But I had to learn a lot of these lessons the hard way. And in my youth I made a lot of mistakes. So in the long run I agree with the child development experts who suggest fashion can be a launching point for discussions about appropriate attire. Rather that just tell a student that their clothes are wrong, ask them to explain why they are making these choices. In some sense it could be percieved as an opportunity for all parties to learn something about each other and the power of fashion. David

As a teacher of 12-13 year olds, I cannot tell you how many students arrive at school showing midriffs, bra straps, cleavage and wearing shirts with offensive slogans on them. Patterns and styles, goth or punk, coloured hair, these are not the issues and are fine with me. The issue is students showing too much skin and bringing a sexual element into the classroom, or a violent/anti-social mentality based on slogans. It becomes difficult to establish a positive relationship with students who are in their rebellious years and are resisting school and whose relationship to the teacher will be crucial for their learning, when I continually have to tell them that their dress is inappropriate for school. Where are the parents in this? They must have purchased the clothing for their kids and must be sending the message that it's okay to wear this to school. Teachers would like parents to take more of an active role in ensuring that their children are dressed properly for the circumstances. Mats

Leggings

Today fashion editor Bernadette Morra and stylist Derick Chetty discussed leggings. Read the archived discussion below and send your thoughts to nakedlunch@thestar.ca.

Great piece on leggings and love the photo spread inside. The text advised "cardigans with boxy cropped jackets".  Not sure what that means... long cardies under jackets? Sharon

Yes, it's all part of the layered look that is very big for fall. You can find lightweight long cardigans or sweaters that come just below the hips. Layer these under a short cropped jacket - it can be one of those abbreviated boxy jackets with cropped sleeves - great mod looking ones currently at H&M - or a wool peacoat. Derick

York University student Lauren DeMonte in leggings from Aritzia.

I noticed most of the people in the Frockwatch column were all wearing opaque - mostly black - leggings. I would love to wear this trend in the winter. Is it acceptable to wear the chunky cable knit leggings? Where can I find those?

Yes, you're right, this summer most women are opting for the lighter cotton leggings in black. But come winter, I'm sure you will find the heavier ribbed leggings in cashmere or a wool blend. If you are going to wear the more textured variety, make sure you pair it with knits - as in a soft long sweater or cardigan or heavy wool coat.  A floaty chiffon dress or skirt will only bring the emphasis on the heavy look on your legs. Also with textured leggings, balance the look with chunky heeled ankle boots. In terms of where you can find them, I would check out Holt Renfrew for the DKNY brand. Derick

I was delighted to read in the Star Fashion pages this morning that leggings are back "in". I have always adored leggings and I think they really show off good legs to great advantage, however they do seem to emphasize shortcomings like chunkiness. What are your thoughts? Lucinda

I think it depends on where the leggings stop and whether you are wearing a mini skirt. For a more streamlined look choose a black opaque legging that goes all the way to the ankle. Stick to skirts or dresses that are knee length or stop just just below the knee. And gain a leg lengthening look by also wearing heels with your leggings. Derick

Some of us have the opposite problem, Lucinda. I have always had very skinny legs with barely any calf muscles. So I find leggings and flats tend to exaggerate the scrawniness, not a great look if your body is NOT as scrawny as your limbs. Also, the leggings themselves tend to stretch and look baggy, especially at the knees. Also not a great look. So I buy size small and handwash them in cool water, because any heat will cause breakdown of the Lycra that helps keep the snug look. Bernadette

One of the retailers in your story says the colour to wear is black, black and black. But when can you wear brown or grey?

You can wear the grey leggings with navy blue and different shades of grey. The brown you could wear with different shades of camel and khaki. Black goes with everything. You don't have to think about it. It even goes with a printed skirt or dress. Mixing different hues in the same family eg. various shades of greys or browns, is trickier to pull off. But when done well, can look fantastic and much more interesting than all black, or black and white. Derick

Leggings with a satin cocktail dress at the Versace show in Milan.

How should I wear leggings? What are the general rules? With heels? Flats? Something big on top? I've noticed that this look can look 'cheap' if not worn properly. How can I avoid looking, er, trashy? How is this trend different from how leggings were worn in the eighties? How low should my Body Mass Index be to pull this off? Melissa

Hi Melissa, Thanks for your questions. Most were addressed in today's article on leggings in the Fashion Section. But here is a quick recap. It's very different from how they were worn in the 80s. The cardinal rule - do not wear as pants. This time around, it's all about layering. Wear them under a mini skirt or dress or layer a long sweater/cardigan over them. You will find plenty of these in any mall store (Club Monaco, Gap). Polish the look off with a cropped swingy jacket.
In terms of footwear, stick to chunky ankle boots if you're wearing them with a sweater and jacket on top. If you're going for dresses or mini skirts, try them with a pair of flats.
As far as your BMI - thankfully it's one of those trends that anyone can wear. Check out Frockwatch in the Fashion Section today. We show a variety of women in Toronto of different sizes and ages that are already wearing leggins. Derick

I read today's article in The Star on fall's fashionable leggings.  For religious reasons, I do not wear pants and dress conservatively in skirts and dresses (no minis), though I do like to stay on top of some trends.  Is there a way I can pull off the legging look this season? Anonymous

Hi Anonymous. I wouldn't want to give you advice that is going to go against your principles. But since you are looking for guidance I would suggest wearing leggings that go right down to your ankles under your skirts and dresses. I guess they could be interpreted as footless tights from a religious point of view, though, from a trend perspective, they are leggings. I hope this helps. By the way, I think it's wonderful that you are looking for a way to blend your religious principles and current styles. Such confidence and individuality are the characteristics of someone who has true style. Bernadette