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September 17, 2009

Vancouver to Osoyoos; a great British Columbia drive...Jim's Deal of the Day

Now, that's a great drive.

I've drive the Coquihalla Highway between Kelowna and Vancouver. On Thursday I did the Vancouver to Osoyoos drive on the the Crowsnest Highway, Highway 3. You slowly make your way out of Vancouver and roll past farms and fields out near Abbotsford before starting the climb toward sawtoothed peaks near Hope, then turn right on to Highway 3.

You hardly see a soul as you roll over the Allison Pass at 1,352 meters and make your way through Manning Provincial Park, hard by the U.S. border. You turn back north and follow the silky Similkameen River to Princeton, a great little town that didn't seem to have a Tim Horton's. But a checkout girl at the Shoppers Drug Mart pointed me to a great place called Cowboy Coffee (great name, too; no pretense here) that had dark, black stuff that would make Starbucks proud. You're pumping money, albeit only a bit, into the local economy so it's a nice feeling. Folks in Osoyoos and the lower Okanagan Valley say Cowboy Coffee is a de rigeur stop on the five hour trip to Vancouver, and it's easy to see why.

You get to follow the Similkameen even further as it dances in the sun between the highway and the mountains. The road's not at all treacherous, but you come right along the rock face several times and get some really lovely vistas before you roll down to Keremeos and Cawston, both sleepy little towns in a valley above Osoyoos.

Folks say the Similkameen is the next big wine area in British Columbia. I didn't get a chance to taste any of the local stuff, but there were a couple dozen wineries before I even reached Osoyoos.

We ran a story on Osoyoos in Star Travel earlier this year but I'd never been. I've seen some dry parts of B.C. up around Cache Creek on the Fraser, but the dry-as-toast chaparral on the roads around Osoyoos and the outcroppings of burnt rock and spindly trees looks more like the Ponderosa or the high deserts of Nevada than anything the average visitor would expect in Canada.

It's absolutely beautiful country. And the wine is smashingly good, especially the reds. I've never found many Canadian red wines with the polish and heft that I like. But the Meritage blend and the Syrah at Nk'Mip in Osoyoos, the first aboriginal-owned winery, were both remarkably good and powerful.

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It's a great spot, set on a hill overlooking the lake in Osoyoos, with a lovely patio. The signature plate features grilled bison, medallions of venison, wild game sausage and grilled vegetables with distinctive cornbread that's stuffed with cranberries, grilled onions and other goodies. Dynamite stuff, and the view's a killer.

You go past some lovely orchards on your way from Osoyoos up to Kelowna, with names like King Tomato, O'Reilly's, Dhaliwal and Elm Tree. You can buy peaches, nectarines, apricots, watermelon, plums, asian pears, walnuts, apples, cucumbers, tomatoes, blueberries and just about everything else except fresh mangoes and pineapple.

Up past Summerland and the lakeside town of Peachland to Kelowna, where I stayed the night at the lakeside Grand Okanagan. A really nice spot with all the amenities and a couple of pools(see photo below) one of which I MIGHT get a chance to dunk myself into later today.


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The highlight of the day was a dinner hosted by Kelowna tourism. Ostensibly it was for some food and wine writers here for a seminar, but I got an invite and managed to fake my way into being something of a wine afficionado. They held the event at RauDZ Regional Table in downtown Kelowna, where chef Rod Butters will do everything from tuna casserole with fresh ahi to a pair of merguez sausage hot dogs, or dress things up with oat-crusted arctic char with maple butter, potato, bacon and spinach saute' or duck served on a vegetable bread pudding with morello cherry relish. Yum. Desserts are spectacularly beautiful, with lots of chocolate and fresh, local raspberries.

They had folks from Peller Estates, Calona Vineyards and SandHill (all owned by Peller) on hand to let us try some unoaked Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a remarkably earthy and full-bodied Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay and Pinot both have won awards from the Lt. Governor of BC, and it was easy to see and taste why. We got to comparing wines to various celebrities and figured the Chardonnay was bright and sparkly like Cameron Diaz. I thought the pinot was George Harrison; complex and hard-to-read but delightful and grounded, and I think that's quite enough of that.


ADVENTURE TRAVEL DEALS

Nice item on the USA Today travel website about the 10 best bargains today in adventure travel. Snowshoeing in Switzerland and cycling in Sicily are two of the options, as well as whitewater rafting in northern California.

 
JIM'S DEAL OF THE DAY 

Norwegian Cruise Line’s three-day NOW sale runs through Sept. 18 with savings on more than 300 cruises in the Bahamas, Bermuda, Caribbean, Hawaii, the Mexican Riviera, South America, Canada and New England and Europe. Itineraries range from three to 29 days. With this sale, cruise fares have come down, plus you’ll get an onboard credit worth up to $250 (U.S.) to spend on shore excursions and at the spa, shops and casino. NCL has also made the booking process easier by cutting the standard cruise deposit by 50 per cent, so that most passengers only have to put down between $25 and $200 per person depending on the length of their cruise. For more details see www.ncl.com.

 

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Travel Blog by Jim Byers


  • Jim Byers

    Jim Byers is the Star's Travel Editor. He has been writing travel stories for more than a decade, covered five Olympic Games and spent years covering the Blue Jays, the Toronto Raptors and the PGA Tour. He's been everywhere from Bonavista to Vancouver Island, as well as China, Hong Kong, Australia, the Caribbean, Thailand, Mexico, Tahiti, New Zealand, Vietnam, a dozen countries in Europe and just about every major city in the U.S. Okay, he was only in Liechtenstein for a couple hours in a rental car and his only visit to New Orleans was when he was 12, but you get the picture.

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