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September 26, 2011

Montreal's ice village, Nanaimo Bar martinis and more Canadian bits

Here are a few more tidbits I picked up last week at Go Media, the annual Canadian Tourism Commission meeting.

VANCOUVER ISLAND There's a new road leading from Cowichan, across the island west to Port Renfrew, which allows visitors to do a circle route from Victoria. It used to be you had to go up to Cowichan and then come back the same way, officials told me. Or you'd go up to Port Renfrew and come back the same way. Now you can do a circle tour. It's about 250 km and it takes you over to Port Renfrew on an old logging road that's been fixed up, then head down to Sooke and back to Victoria. I'm told there are Nanaimo great beaches with hardly anyone on them. There's also a new Nanaimo Bar Trail with Nanaimo Bar cheesecake, ice cream, deep fried bars, and a Nanaimo Bar martini. Yikes. New wineries also are opening up Nanaimo way. It's a fun, pretty town (see photo) I got to visit a couple years ago.

WHISTLER Last year, visitors were able to ride down the track used for skeleton races at the 2010 Winter Olympics. This winter, they'll do it again but they have added piloted bobsleigh runs so you can experience the thrill of an Olympic bobsleigh race, albeit from a little further down the hill. There's also a new ampitheatre for concerts, located where the Olympics medal plaza was situated at the north end of the village. They also have a new app at Whistler, where folks who are so, um, inclined can check their vertical speed and exact positions on the hill, and more. Of course, you could simply ski and enjoy the scenery. Folks also say they've added wi-fi at the top of both Whistler and Blackcomb and that the food has been upgraded at hilltop restaurants. They had their first snowfall of the season just the other day.

YUKON I didn't know this, but the Yukon is about the same size as California. But instead of, oh, 38 million folks there are 35,000. Most of those live in Whitehorse, where the surge in gold prices is keeping prices high. "There was no such thing as a condo in Whitehorse five years ago," said Jim Kimshead, the colourful spokesman for the tourism ministry. "Now lots have sprung up, and they're going for up to $500,000." Kemshead told  me there are 20 peaks in Kluane Park that are more than 14,000 feet high. "There aren't any mountains that high in the Rockies," he said.

WINNIPEG In addition to the return of the Jets, there's tons going out in a place that says it offersWinnipeg  "Small Town Friendly, Big Town Fun." The new Canadian museum for Human Rights is being built at The Forks. A new airport opens in October, and this year marks the 100th anniversary of the city's Union Station. The University of Winnipeg is expanding, and Red River College is moving its culinary school to a building in the downtown Exchange Disitrict. Oh, Assiniboine Park is getting a polar bear rescue centre, which should prove immensely popular for folks who can't make it north to Churchill.

NEW BRUNSWICK The Acadian Festival runs up around Caraquet in the first part of August, when the town swells from 5,000 residents to about 25,000. The Hotel Paulin in town has a chef from Toronto and there's a new French boulangerie in town. And a sushi place, too. Not to mention you can get lobster poutine! The 2014 Acadian World Congress will be held outside Edmundston, with representation and help from Quebec and Maine.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND The Holman Grand Hotel, an 80-room boutique property, is the first new hotel in town in 20-plus years. There's a deck on the 10th floor with great views. It may not sound like much but I'm told it's the highest point in the city. The island has introduced something called PEI authentic experiences, where you can work alongside a fisherman or a pottery maker and get the straight goods without a guide or interpreter to mess things up. I didn't know, but they have a bike path that stretches from one tip of the island to the other; about 250 km. You can do it yourself or get a guided tour and stop along the way at various inns.

QUEBEC The new Le Massif train is up and running. You leave at 9 a.m. from Montmorency station and get gourmet meals on your way to and from La Malbaie, where you get a three-hour visit mid-day. It's $250 and right now runs only on weekends. It'll stop at the ski hill in February, so that'll be big news for Le Massif's ski business. Also, there's a Transatlantic sailing race every four years from Quebec to St. Malo, France. It's back this year, departing July 22, with some 30 boats in competition.

MONTREAL An entire ice village on Ile St. Helene Jan. 5 March 27 with an ice hotel, a bar, a chapel that looks like where Superman got married in the first Superman movie, and replica ice buildings of famous IMG_9449 Montreal structures, such as Notre Dame des Bonsecours church. A new Daniel Boulud restaurant will open with the Ritz Carlton hotel in Montreal in April or so.

OKANAGAN A company called Okanagan Spirits makes not only fruit wines but absinthe, grappa and now gin, that's wheat based. They're said to be still testing recipes. Also, there are three zip lines in the Thompson-Okanagan region (see photo taken from the luscious patio at Mission Hill winery), all of them brand new. We suggest not drinking too much absinthe prior to a zipline trip....

SASKATOON There's a place just outside of town where you can go snow kiteboarding; riding on a snowboard-like apparatus if the wind and ice are right. You move incredibly fast, but they'll apparently give smaller sails to beginners to try. Their will be a Blues Festival this winter, and they're staging the Brier in March of next year and the Canadian Country Music Awards in September. There's also a new hotel, the James, a boutique-style property with less than 100 rooms, and a new Art Gallery of Saskatchewan is in the works. That's a very busy city, not surprising given the boom in Saskatchewan these days.

TORONTO There's a Fellini exhibit on now at the TIFF Lightbox. A Grace Kelly exhibit will move in in the fall, complete with her gowns and Oscar awards.

EASTERN TOWNSHIPS There's a wine route to take you to 17 vineyards in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. They also have driving trails in the hilly, far east region. At Mont Bromont they've expanded their lighting and now more than one half the slopes are lit for night skiing. Every second Saturday they leave the lights on until 2 a.m. for the late night types. It's said to be the largest lighted ski resort in northeastern North America.


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Travel Blog by Jim Byers


  • Jim Byers

    Jim Byers is the Star's Travel Editor. He has been writing travel stories for more than a decade, covered five Olympic Games and spent years covering the Blue Jays, the Toronto Raptors and the PGA Tour. He's been everywhere from Bonavista to Vancouver Island, as well as China, Hong Kong, Australia, the Caribbean, Thailand, Mexico, Tahiti, New Zealand, Vietnam, a dozen countries in Europe and just about every major city in the U.S. Okay, he was only in Liechtenstein for a couple hours in a rental car and his only visit to New Orleans was when he was 12, but you get the picture.

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